Installing a Security Lock

 
Deadbolt locks provide extra security for entry doors. There are two types -- single-cylinder and double-cylinder. Single-cylinder types feature a finger latch that can be opened from the inside. Double-cylinder deadbolts must be opened with a key from either side of the door.

Both types are available in a variety of styles and finishes to match existing hardware.

 

 

Measure to find the lock location. Tape the cardboard template, supplied with the lockset, onto the door. Use a nail or awl to mark the centerpoints of the cylinder and the latch bolt on the door.

 

Bore a cylinder hole with a hole saw and drill. To avoid splintering the door, drill through one side until the hole-saw pilot (mandrel) just starts to come out the other side. Remove the hole saw and then complete the hole from the opposite side of the door.

 

Use a spade bit and drill to bore the latch bolt hole from the edge of the door into the cylinder hole. Make sure to keep the drill perpendicular to the door edge while drilling.

 

Insert the latch bolt into the edge hole. Insert the lock tailpiece and connecting screws through the latch bolt mechanism, and screw the cylinders together. Mark the edge of the latch with chalk and close the door. The chalk will mark the door jamb, indicating where to properly place the strike plate.

 

Mark the outline of the mortise with a pencil. Use the hardware as a marking template when drawing the outline for strike plate mortises and hinge mortises.

 

Cut the outline of the mortise by holding a chisel with the bevel-side in and tap the butt end lightly with a mallet or hammer until the cut is at the proper depth.

 

Make a series of parallel depth cuts 1/4 inch apart across the mortise with the chisel held at a 45-degree angle. Drive the chisel with light mallet blows to the butt end of the chisel.

 

Pry out the waste chips by holding the chisel at a low angle with the bevel-side toward the work surface. Drive the chisel by light hand pressure.

 

Bore the latch bolt hole in the center of the mortise with a spade bit. Install the strike plate using the retaining screws provided with the lockset.

 
   
 

RELATED PROJECTS


Aligning the Bolt and Strike Plate
 

Freeing a Sticking Door

 
 

Do it Yourself Projects


Aligning the Bolt and Strike Plate

Adjusting an Out-of-Balance Door

Adding a Telephone Extension

Building a Multilevel Deck

Building a Ground-Level Deck

Building a Single-Level Raised Deck

Building a Low-Level Deck

Building a Closet Organizer

Building Utility Shelves

Constructing a Built-In Shelving Unit

Freeing a Sticking Door

Framing a Prehung Interior Door

Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers

Finishing Inside Corners

Finishing Outside Corners

Grouting

Getting Ready to Paint

Hanging Borders

Installing Cabinet Drawer Fronts

Installing Cabinet Doors

Installing a Security Lock

Installing an Entry Door

Installing Split-Jamb Interior Doors

Installing a Cable TV Jack

Installing Coaxial TV Cable

Installing a Programmable Thermostat

Installing a Ceiling Fan

Installing a Dimmer Switch

Installing a Three-Way Switch

Installing Specialty Switches

Installing Cement Backerboard

Installing Landscape Timber Edging

Installing Plastic Edging

Installing Metal Edging

Installing Wood Edging

Installing Sawtooth Brick Edging

Installing Flat Brick Edging

Installing Precast Concrete Edging

Installing Gutter Liners

Installing a New Flush Valve

Installing A Plunger-Valve Ballcock

Installing a Water Purifier

Installing A New Faucet

Installing a Toilet

Installing a Closet-Organizer System

Installing Stationary Brackets

Installing Adjustable Brackets

Installing Beaded-Board Wainscoting

Laying Out the Tiles

Laying Out Square Corners

Laying Out Arcs

Laying Out Straight Edges

Laying Out Free-form Curves

Maintaining Garage Door Openers

Making Minor Adjustments

Masking Wood Trim

Mitering Border Corners

Maintaining Your Storm Doors

Painting Flat Doors

Painting a Door (While Attached)

Painting a Door (Unattached)

Painting Trim

Painting Window Frames

Painting Exterior Windows

Painting Soffits and Fascia

Painting Jambs, Casings, and Trim

Patching Peeling Paint

Patching Large Holes in Wallboard

Patching Small Holes in Wallboard

Patching a Screen

Replacing Hinges

Replacing Door Pulls

Refinishing a Redwood or Cedar Deck

Renewing Your Deck

Refinishing a Pressure-Treated Deck

Replacing a Step

Repairing Decking and Joists

Replacing a Stair Railing

Replacing a Deck Railing

Roll-Up Door Maintenance Tips

Recessed Lighting

Replacing a Wall Switch

Removing Ceramic Tile

Removing Carpet

Removing Wood Flooring

Removing and Replacing Thresholds

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing Worn Valve Seats

Resurfacing Valve Seats

Repairing Leaky Downspout Joints

Repairing Leaky Metal Gutters

Replacing a Sink Sprayer

Removing Old Faucets

Removing a Toilet

Replacing Drain Traps

Removing Stains

Removing Mildew

Removing Wallpaper

Resetting Popped Nails

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing a Screen in a Wooden Frame

Replacing a Screen in a Metal Frame

Replacing a Screen in an Aluminum

Setting the Tiles

Stopping Squeaks

Troubleshooting Your Thermostat

Track Lighting

Testing a Light Socket

Testing a Receptacle for Power

Taping Joints

Under-Cabinet Lighting

Unclogging a Sink Drain Trap

Unclogging Toilet Drains

Unclogging Shower Drains

Using Chemical Strippers

Using a Heat Gun

Weatherproofing Your Entry Door

Weatherproofing Other Door Types

Weatherproofing Other Window Types

Weatherproofing Your Windows

 
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