Recessed Lighting

 

Option A: Cut the hole. Lightly mark all light locations. Use a stud finder to make sure they do not overlap a joist. Or, drill a hole and poke a bent wire up into it to make sure the hole is entirely between joists. Use the template provided with the light to draw a circle on the ceiling. Draw and cut each hole precisely. If it is even a little too big, the can may not clamp tightly. Wearing safety glasses, cut the line lightly with a utility knife; then cut along the inside of the knife line with a drywall saw. Take care not to snag any wires that may be in the ceiling cavity.

 

Option B: Use a Hole-Cutting Saw. This tool saves time and cuts holes precisely. You don't have to draw the outline of the hole on the ceiling; just mark the center point. Check to see that you will not run into a joist. Check that the lights fit snugly without having to be forced into place. Note: This tool is costly (the saw and the arbor are sold separately), but it's worth the price if you have more than six holes to cut through plaster. A less-expensive tool (inset) is available for cutting through drywall only.

 

Rough-In the Wiring. Run cable from a power source to a switch box, and then to the first hole, allowing at least 16 inches of extra cable to make wiring easy. Work carefully and use a drill with a long bit to avoid cutting additional access holes that will need patching later.

 

Wire the Light. Open the light's junction box. Usually, there's a plate that pops off. Run cable into the box and clamp it. Strip insulation and make wire splices-black to black, white to white, and ground to ground. Fold the wires into the box and replace the cover.

 

Mount the Light. Most remodel cans have four clips that clamp the can to the ceiling by pushing down on the top of the drywall or plaster. Pull the clips in so they do not protrude outside the can. Slip the can's box into the hole; then push the can body up into the hole until its flange is tight to the ceiling. With your thumb or a screwdriver, push each clip up and outward until it clicks and clamps the fixture.

 

Add the Trim. Most trims are mounted with coil springs or squeezable rod springs (as shown). If you have coil springs: Hook each spring to its assigned hole inside the can (if it is not already there). Pull out each spring and hook it to the trim; then carefully guide the trim into position. If you have rod springs, squeeze and insert both ends of each spring into their assigned holes; then push the trim up.

 
   
 

RELATED PROJECTS


Under-Cabinet Lighting

 

Track Lighting

 
 

Do it Yourself Projects


Aligning the Bolt and Strike Plate

Adjusting an Out-of-Balance Door

Adding a Telephone Extension

Building a Multilevel Deck

Building a Ground-Level Deck

Building a Single-Level Raised Deck

Building a Low-Level Deck

Building a Closet Organizer

Building Utility Shelves

Constructing a Built-In Shelving Unit

Freeing a Sticking Door

Framing a Prehung Interior Door

Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers

Finishing Inside Corners

Finishing Outside Corners

Grouting

Getting Ready to Paint

Hanging Borders

Installing Cabinet Drawer Fronts

Installing Cabinet Doors

Installing a Security Lock

Installing an Entry Door

Installing Split-Jamb Interior Doors

Installing a Cable TV Jack

Installing Coaxial TV Cable

Installing a Programmable Thermostat

Installing a Ceiling Fan

Installing a Dimmer Switch

Installing a Three-Way Switch

Installing Specialty Switches

Installing Cement Backerboard

Installing Landscape Timber Edging

Installing Plastic Edging

Installing Metal Edging

Installing Wood Edging

Installing Sawtooth Brick Edging

Installing Flat Brick Edging

Installing Precast Concrete Edging

Installing Gutter Liners

Installing a New Flush Valve

Installing A Plunger-Valve Ballcock

Installing a Water Purifier

Installing A New Faucet

Installing a Toilet

Installing a Closet-Organizer System

Installing Stationary Brackets

Installing Adjustable Brackets

Installing Beaded-Board Wainscoting

Laying Out the Tiles

Laying Out Square Corners

Laying Out Arcs

Laying Out Straight Edges

Laying Out Free-form Curves

Maintaining Garage Door Openers

Making Minor Adjustments

Masking Wood Trim

Mitering Border Corners

Maintaining Your Storm Doors

Painting Flat Doors

Painting a Door (While Attached)

Painting a Door (Unattached)

Painting Trim

Painting Window Frames

Painting Exterior Windows

Painting Soffits and Fascia

Painting Jambs, Casings, and Trim

Patching Peeling Paint

Patching Large Holes in Wallboard

Patching Small Holes in Wallboard

Patching a Screen

Replacing Hinges

Replacing Door Pulls

Refinishing a Redwood or Cedar Deck

Renewing Your Deck

Refinishing a Pressure-Treated Deck

Replacing a Step

Repairing Decking and Joists

Replacing a Stair Railing

Replacing a Deck Railing

Roll-Up Door Maintenance Tips

Recessed Lighting

Replacing a Wall Switch

Removing Ceramic Tile

Removing Carpet

Removing Wood Flooring

Removing and Replacing Thresholds

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing Worn Valve Seats

Resurfacing Valve Seats

Repairing Leaky Downspout Joints

Repairing Leaky Metal Gutters

Replacing a Sink Sprayer

Removing Old Faucets

Removing a Toilet

Replacing Drain Traps

Removing Stains

Removing Mildew

Removing Wallpaper

Resetting Popped Nails

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing a Screen in a Wooden Frame

Replacing a Screen in a Metal Frame

Replacing a Screen in an Aluminum

Setting the Tiles

Stopping Squeaks

Troubleshooting Your Thermostat

Track Lighting

Testing a Light Socket

Testing a Receptacle for Power

Taping Joints

Under-Cabinet Lighting

Unclogging a Sink Drain Trap

Unclogging Toilet Drains

Unclogging Shower Drains

Using Chemical Strippers

Using a Heat Gun

Weatherproofing Your Entry Door

Weatherproofing Other Door Types

Weatherproofing Other Window Types

Weatherproofing Your Windows

 
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