Installing Cement Backerboard

 
You may be tempted to rush ahead and get to the fun part - laying the tiles. But resist the urge. Unless you prepare the surface under the tiles properly, you'll end up having to retile a lot sooner than you want.

Tiles need a smooth, flat, rigid surface to sit on. Plywood is sometimes used, but cement backerboard is generally considered a better choice. Backerboard is essentially a thin layer of concrete with fiberglass mesh on both sides. It was designed specifically as a setting surface for tile.

Backerboard comes in a range of sizes: 3- by 5-foot sheets are most common for floors. Over a 5/8-inch subfloor, use 1/2-inch-thick sheets.

 

 

Snap a grid of chalk lines on the floor to mark the dimensions of the sheets. Plan so that joints in the backerboard won’t line up with joints in the subfloor. With the smooth side of a ¼-inch notched trowel, spread enough adhesive for one sheet. Ridge the adhesive with the notched side of the trowel.

 

While the adhesive is still wet, place a sheet of backerboard into it. Leave a ¼-inch gap between the backerboard and the wall and a 1/8-inch gap between the backerboard sheets. Position the sheets so that you don’t have four corners meeting.

 

After you've positioned each sheet, drive backerboard screws into it every 8 inches. Around the perimeter, position the screws at least 1/2 inch, but no more than 2 inches from the edge.

 

With a margin trowel or the flat side of your notched trowel, fill the joints with adhesive, smoothing it so it extends about 1 1/2 inches on each side of the joint. The extra adhesive makes it easier to bed the tape.

 

Cover the adhesive-filled joints with 2-inch vinyl-coated fiberglass tape, pushing it firmly into the adhesive. You can cut the tape to length with the thin side of your trowel. When the tape is embedded, scrape off any excess adhesive from both sides.

 

Cover each length of tape with a thin layer of adhesive. Spread the adhesive with the flat side of your trowel and feather the edges. You want the transition from board to board to be as smooth as possible.

 
   
 

RELATED PROJECTS


Laying Out the Tiles

 

Setting the Tiles
 

Grouting

 
 

Do it Yourself Projects


Aligning the Bolt and Strike Plate

Adjusting an Out-of-Balance Door

Adding a Telephone Extension

Building a Multilevel Deck

Building a Ground-Level Deck

Building a Single-Level Raised Deck

Building a Low-Level Deck

Building a Closet Organizer

Building Utility Shelves

Constructing a Built-In Shelving Unit

Freeing a Sticking Door

Framing a Prehung Interior Door

Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers

Finishing Inside Corners

Finishing Outside Corners

Grouting

Getting Ready to Paint

Hanging Borders

Installing Cabinet Drawer Fronts

Installing Cabinet Doors

Installing a Security Lock

Installing an Entry Door

Installing Split-Jamb Interior Doors

Installing a Cable TV Jack

Installing Coaxial TV Cable

Installing a Programmable Thermostat

Installing a Ceiling Fan

Installing a Dimmer Switch

Installing a Three-Way Switch

Installing Specialty Switches

Installing Cement Backerboard

Installing Landscape Timber Edging

Installing Plastic Edging

Installing Metal Edging

Installing Wood Edging

Installing Sawtooth Brick Edging

Installing Flat Brick Edging

Installing Precast Concrete Edging

Installing Gutter Liners

Installing a New Flush Valve

Installing A Plunger-Valve Ballcock

Installing a Water Purifier

Installing A New Faucet

Installing a Toilet

Installing a Closet-Organizer System

Installing Stationary Brackets

Installing Adjustable Brackets

Installing Beaded-Board Wainscoting

Laying Out the Tiles

Laying Out Square Corners

Laying Out Arcs

Laying Out Straight Edges

Laying Out Free-form Curves

Maintaining Garage Door Openers

Making Minor Adjustments

Masking Wood Trim

Mitering Border Corners

Maintaining Your Storm Doors

Painting Flat Doors

Painting a Door (While Attached)

Painting a Door (Unattached)

Painting Trim

Painting Window Frames

Painting Exterior Windows

Painting Soffits and Fascia

Painting Jambs, Casings, and Trim

Patching Peeling Paint

Patching Large Holes in Wallboard

Patching Small Holes in Wallboard

Patching a Screen

Replacing Hinges

Replacing Door Pulls

Refinishing a Redwood or Cedar Deck

Renewing Your Deck

Refinishing a Pressure-Treated Deck

Replacing a Step

Repairing Decking and Joists

Replacing a Stair Railing

Replacing a Deck Railing

Roll-Up Door Maintenance Tips

Recessed Lighting

Replacing a Wall Switch

Removing Ceramic Tile

Removing Carpet

Removing Wood Flooring

Removing and Replacing Thresholds

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing Worn Valve Seats

Resurfacing Valve Seats

Repairing Leaky Downspout Joints

Repairing Leaky Metal Gutters

Replacing a Sink Sprayer

Removing Old Faucets

Removing a Toilet

Replacing Drain Traps

Removing Stains

Removing Mildew

Removing Wallpaper

Resetting Popped Nails

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing a Screen in a Wooden Frame

Replacing a Screen in a Metal Frame

Replacing a Screen in an Aluminum

Setting the Tiles

Stopping Squeaks

Troubleshooting Your Thermostat

Track Lighting

Testing a Light Socket

Testing a Receptacle for Power

Taping Joints

Under-Cabinet Lighting

Unclogging a Sink Drain Trap

Unclogging Toilet Drains

Unclogging Shower Drains

Using Chemical Strippers

Using a Heat Gun

Weatherproofing Your Entry Door

Weatherproofing Other Door Types

Weatherproofing Other Window Types

Weatherproofing Your Windows

 
| Site Map Site Map2 | Privacy Policy | © 2008 Handyman.PainterClick.com. All Rights Reserved.