Stopping Squeaks

 
Floors and stairs squeak when wooden floorboards or structural elements rub against each other, when the bridging between joists flexes under traffic, or when floorboards have not been properly nailed to the subfloor.

Fix squeaks from underneath the floor or staircase, if you can. If the underside is covered, you'll have to work from above. With hardwood floors, drive ring-shank or cement-coated flooring nails into the seams between boards. Separate wooden bridging members to eliminate noise problems.

To quiet a squeaky floor covered with deep-pile carpet, drive a wallboard screw through the carpet and pad into the floor joist. Countersink the screw head in the subfloor. This releases any trapped pad under the screw head and allows the carpet to lie flat.

 

 

Shimming the subfloor: If floor joists are not tight against the subfloor in the area that's squeaking, shimming may solve the problem. Wedge shims between the joist and subfloor and tap them into place. Don't pound the shims because they could lift the floorboards and cause more squeaking.

 

Cleating the subfloor: Where several boards in the subfloor above a joist are moving, securing them with a cleat works better than shimming the boards individually. A piece of 1x4, wedged against the subfloor and nailed to the joist solves this problem.

 

Reinforcing joists: Squeaking over a large area may indicate that the joists beneath the floor are shifting slightly and inadequately supporting the subfloor. Steel bridging, nailed between joists, keeps the joists from moving side to side and stabilizes the subfloor.

 

Driving screws from below: Drill a pilot hole through the subfloor, then a smaller pilot hole into the finished floor. Have someone stand on the raised boards while you pull them tight with a wood screw.

 

Nailing from above: When you can't get access to the floor from below, drill pilot holes and nail through the surface. Locate the floor joists and nail directly into them for a fastening job that won't work loose. Countersink the nail heads.

 

Anchoring stair treads to risers: Driving flooring nails at opposing angles assures they won't come loose again. With hardwood treads, drill pilot holes for the nails, drive the nails into the risers, and countersink the nail heads. Fill the nail holes with wood putty.

 
   
 
 

Do it Yourself Projects


Aligning the Bolt and Strike Plate

Adjusting an Out-of-Balance Door

Adding a Telephone Extension

Building a Multilevel Deck

Building a Ground-Level Deck

Building a Single-Level Raised Deck

Building a Low-Level Deck

Building a Closet Organizer

Building Utility Shelves

Constructing a Built-In Shelving Unit

Freeing a Sticking Door

Framing a Prehung Interior Door

Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers

Finishing Inside Corners

Finishing Outside Corners

Grouting

Getting Ready to Paint

Hanging Borders

Installing Cabinet Drawer Fronts

Installing Cabinet Doors

Installing a Security Lock

Installing an Entry Door

Installing Split-Jamb Interior Doors

Installing a Cable TV Jack

Installing Coaxial TV Cable

Installing a Programmable Thermostat

Installing a Ceiling Fan

Installing a Dimmer Switch

Installing a Three-Way Switch

Installing Specialty Switches

Installing Cement Backerboard

Installing Landscape Timber Edging

Installing Plastic Edging

Installing Metal Edging

Installing Wood Edging

Installing Sawtooth Brick Edging

Installing Flat Brick Edging

Installing Precast Concrete Edging

Installing Gutter Liners

Installing a New Flush Valve

Installing A Plunger-Valve Ballcock

Installing a Water Purifier

Installing A New Faucet

Installing a Toilet

Installing a Closet-Organizer System

Installing Stationary Brackets

Installing Adjustable Brackets

Installing Beaded-Board Wainscoting

Laying Out the Tiles

Laying Out Square Corners

Laying Out Arcs

Laying Out Straight Edges

Laying Out Free-form Curves

Maintaining Garage Door Openers

Making Minor Adjustments

Masking Wood Trim

Mitering Border Corners

Maintaining Your Storm Doors

Painting Flat Doors

Painting a Door (While Attached)

Painting a Door (Unattached)

Painting Trim

Painting Window Frames

Painting Exterior Windows

Painting Soffits and Fascia

Painting Jambs, Casings, and Trim

Patching Peeling Paint

Patching Large Holes in Wallboard

Patching Small Holes in Wallboard

Patching a Screen

Replacing Hinges

Replacing Door Pulls

Refinishing a Redwood or Cedar Deck

Renewing Your Deck

Refinishing a Pressure-Treated Deck

Replacing a Step

Repairing Decking and Joists

Replacing a Stair Railing

Replacing a Deck Railing

Roll-Up Door Maintenance Tips

Recessed Lighting

Replacing a Wall Switch

Removing Ceramic Tile

Removing Carpet

Removing Wood Flooring

Removing and Replacing Thresholds

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing Worn Valve Seats

Resurfacing Valve Seats

Repairing Leaky Downspout Joints

Repairing Leaky Metal Gutters

Replacing a Sink Sprayer

Removing Old Faucets

Removing a Toilet

Replacing Drain Traps

Removing Stains

Removing Mildew

Removing Wallpaper

Resetting Popped Nails

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing a Screen in a Wooden Frame

Replacing a Screen in a Metal Frame

Replacing a Screen in an Aluminum

Setting the Tiles

Stopping Squeaks

Troubleshooting Your Thermostat

Track Lighting

Testing a Light Socket

Testing a Receptacle for Power

Taping Joints

Under-Cabinet Lighting

Unclogging a Sink Drain Trap

Unclogging Toilet Drains

Unclogging Shower Drains

Using Chemical Strippers

Using a Heat Gun

Weatherproofing Your Entry Door

Weatherproofing Other Door Types

Weatherproofing Other Window Types

Weatherproofing Your Windows

 
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