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Laying Out Straight
Edges |
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| If you lay out a bed with landscape timbers, bricks or
stones, you'll want to create a flawlessly straight line
to start with. This two-step technique assures you a
perfectly straight line every time. |
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 Build batterboards with 2x4 stakes and crosspieces that are
about 2 feet long. Nail the crosspieces a few inches below
the top of the stakes with 10d (3-inch) common nails. |
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 Drive in a batterboard about 2 feet past each end of the bed. Run a
mason's line between the batterboards along the bed's edge
and tie it to the crosspieces. Level the line with a line
level. |
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 Mark the end
of each edge on the mason's line with tape. Transfer the
endpoint to the ground with a plumb bob and mark it with
powdered chalk. |
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 Drive a 2x2
stake into the ground at each of the marked endpoints. Run
a mason's line along the ground between the stakes. To
mark the bed's edge on the ground, sprinkle powdered chalk
over the line. |
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RELATED PROJECTS
Laying Out Square
Corners
Laying Out Arcs
Laying Out Free-form
Curves
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Do it
Yourself Projects
Aligning the Bolt and Strike Plate
Adjusting an Out-of-Balance Door
Adding
a Telephone Extension
Building a Multilevel Deck
Building a Ground-Level Deck
Building a Single-Level Raised Deck
Building a Low-Level Deck
Building a Closet Organizer
Building Utility Shelves
Constructing a Built-In Shelving Unit
Freeing a Sticking Door
Framing a Prehung Interior Door
Fixing
Leaky Sink Strainers
Finishing Inside Corners
Finishing Outside Corners
Grouting
Getting Ready to Paint
Hanging Borders
Installing Cabinet Drawer Fronts
Installing Cabinet Doors
Installing a Security Lock
Installing an Entry Door
Installing Split-Jamb Interior Doors
Installing a Cable TV Jack
Installing Coaxial TV Cable
Installing a Programmable Thermostat
Installing a Ceiling Fan
Installing a Dimmer Switch
Installing a Three-Way Switch
Installing Specialty Switches
Installing Cement Backerboard
Installing Landscape Timber Edging
Installing Plastic Edging
Installing Metal Edging
Installing Wood Edging
Installing Sawtooth Brick Edging
Installing Flat Brick Edging
Installing Precast Concrete Edging
Installing Gutter Liners
Installing a New Flush Valve
Installing A Plunger-Valve Ballcock
Installing a Water Purifier
Installing A New Faucet
Installing a Toilet
Installing a Closet-Organizer System
Installing Stationary Brackets
Installing Adjustable Brackets
Installing Beaded-Board Wainscoting
Laying
Out the Tiles
Laying
Out Square Corners
Laying
Out Arcs
Laying
Out Straight Edges
Laying
Out Free-form Curves
Maintaining Garage Door Openers
Making
Minor Adjustments
Masking Wood Trim
Mitering Border Corners
Maintaining Your Storm Doors
Painting Flat Doors
Painting a Door (While Attached)
Painting a Door (Unattached)
Painting Trim
Painting Window Frames
Painting Exterior Windows
Painting Soffits and Fascia
Painting Jambs, Casings, and Trim
Patching Peeling Paint
Patching Large Holes in Wallboard
Patching Small Holes in Wallboard
Patching a Screen
Replacing Hinges
Replacing Door Pulls
Refinishing a Redwood or Cedar Deck
Renewing Your Deck
Refinishing a Pressure-Treated Deck
Replacing a Step
Repairing Decking and Joists
Replacing a Stair Railing
Replacing a Deck Railing
Roll-Up Door Maintenance Tips
Recessed Lighting
Replacing a Wall Switch
Removing Ceramic Tile
Removing Carpet
Removing Wood Flooring
Removing and Replacing Thresholds
Replacing a Threshold
Replacing Worn Valve Seats
Resurfacing Valve Seats
Repairing Leaky Downspout Joints
Repairing Leaky Metal Gutters
Replacing a Sink Sprayer
Removing Old Faucets
Removing a Toilet
Replacing Drain Traps
Removing Stains
Removing Mildew
Removing Wallpaper
Resetting Popped Nails
Replacing a Threshold
Replacing a Screen in a Wooden Frame
Replacing a Screen in a Metal Frame
Replacing a Screen in an Aluminum
Setting the Tiles
Stopping Squeaks
Troubleshooting Your Thermostat
Track
Lighting
Testing a Light Socket
Testing a Receptacle for Power
Taping Joints
Under-Cabinet Lighting
Unclogging
a Sink Drain Trap
Unclogging Toilet Drains
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