Building a Ground-Level Deck

 
Decks are a perfect area for outdoor entertaining and outdoor relaxing. The style of deck you choose to build determines how you use your deck, as well as how you build it. Although similar in appearance, different decks can require different construction techniques.

Our Installation Services experts built this Ground-Level deck and documented the steps taken in order to help you build your own outdoor living area.

You will see how the deck was assembled, why material choices were made, and the approximate time it took to do the work. Use this example to help you plan your own deck.

 

 

 

Batterboards and mason's string lines were used to lay out footing locations for a deck that is approximately 8 feet wide and 10 feet long. Six holes for 8-inch-diameter footings were dug with a posthole digger. Each hole is 12 inches deep. There is no frost line to deal with since this is a freestanding deck. Tube forms were used to level the footings about 1 inch above ground level.

Approximate time for a novice (with a helper) to lay out footing locations, dig holes, and level tube forms for this deck: 5-7 hours.

 

Six 60-pound bags of ready-mix concrete were mixed in a wheelbarrow. Post anchors for 4x4 posts were attached to the footings after the concrete cured for 48 hours. The anchors were aligned with a long straight board. Diagonal measurements were checked to square the anchor positions.

 

Beams were made from double 2x6s. They were attached in the post anchors. A 1/2-inch-thick pressure-treated shim was installed between the beam and one side of the anchor at each footing. The anchor is 31/2 inches wide and the beam is 3 inches thick.

 

Beam alignment was checked and adjusted as necessary to make certain beams were square.

 

2x6 rim joists were attached to the ends of the beams. Angle brackets were installed to provide additional support for the corner joints.

 

Inner 2x6 joists were attached to the beam faces with joist hangers.

 

2x6 decking was installed perpendicular to the joists. Decking was fastened with deck screws. Ends of boards hang over edge of deck and will be trimmed to length after installation.

 

A chalk line was snapped to mark a straight cutting line. Decking was trimmed to length with a circular saw.

 
   
 

RELATED PROJECTS


Building a Multilevel Deck

 

Building a Single-Level Raised Deck

 

Building a Low-Level Deck

 
 

Do it Yourself Projects


Aligning the Bolt and Strike Plate

Adjusting an Out-of-Balance Door

Adding a Telephone Extension

Building a Multilevel Deck

Building a Ground-Level Deck

Building a Single-Level Raised Deck

Building a Low-Level Deck

Building a Closet Organizer

Building Utility Shelves

Constructing a Built-In Shelving Unit

Freeing a Sticking Door

Framing a Prehung Interior Door

Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers

Finishing Inside Corners

Finishing Outside Corners

Grouting

Getting Ready to Paint

Hanging Borders

Installing Cabinet Drawer Fronts

Installing Cabinet Doors

Installing a Security Lock

Installing an Entry Door

Installing Split-Jamb Interior Doors

Installing a Cable TV Jack

Installing Coaxial TV Cable

Installing a Programmable Thermostat

Installing a Ceiling Fan

Installing a Dimmer Switch

Installing a Three-Way Switch

Installing Specialty Switches

Installing Cement Backerboard

Installing Landscape Timber Edging

Installing Plastic Edging

Installing Metal Edging

Installing Wood Edging

Installing Sawtooth Brick Edging

Installing Flat Brick Edging

Installing Precast Concrete Edging

Installing Gutter Liners

Installing a New Flush Valve

Installing A Plunger-Valve Ballcock

Installing a Water Purifier

Installing A New Faucet

Installing a Toilet

Installing a Closet-Organizer System

Installing Stationary Brackets

Installing Adjustable Brackets

Installing Beaded-Board Wainscoting

Laying Out the Tiles

Laying Out Square Corners

Laying Out Arcs

Laying Out Straight Edges

Laying Out Free-form Curves

Maintaining Garage Door Openers

Making Minor Adjustments

Masking Wood Trim

Mitering Border Corners

Maintaining Your Storm Doors

Painting Flat Doors

Painting a Door (While Attached)

Painting a Door (Unattached)

Painting Trim

Painting Window Frames

Painting Exterior Windows

Painting Soffits and Fascia

Painting Jambs, Casings, and Trim

Patching Peeling Paint

Patching Large Holes in Wallboard

Patching Small Holes in Wallboard

Patching a Screen

Replacing Hinges

Replacing Door Pulls

Refinishing a Redwood or Cedar Deck

Renewing Your Deck

Refinishing a Pressure-Treated Deck

Replacing a Step

Repairing Decking and Joists

Replacing a Stair Railing

Replacing a Deck Railing

Roll-Up Door Maintenance Tips

Recessed Lighting

Replacing a Wall Switch

Removing Ceramic Tile

Removing Carpet

Removing Wood Flooring

Removing and Replacing Thresholds

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing Worn Valve Seats

Resurfacing Valve Seats

Repairing Leaky Downspout Joints

Repairing Leaky Metal Gutters

Replacing a Sink Sprayer

Removing Old Faucets

Removing a Toilet

Replacing Drain Traps

Removing Stains

Removing Mildew

Removing Wallpaper

Resetting Popped Nails

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing a Screen in a Wooden Frame

Replacing a Screen in a Metal Frame

Replacing a Screen in an Aluminum

Setting the Tiles

Stopping Squeaks

Troubleshooting Your Thermostat

Track Lighting

Testing a Light Socket

Testing a Receptacle for Power

Taping Joints

Under-Cabinet Lighting

Unclogging a Sink Drain Trap

Unclogging Toilet Drains

Unclogging Shower Drains

Using Chemical Strippers

Using a Heat Gun

Weatherproofing Your Entry Door

Weatherproofing Other Door Types

Weatherproofing Other Window Types

Weatherproofing Your Windows

 
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