Building a Low-Level Deck

 
Decks are a perfect area for outdoor entertaining and outdoor relaxing. The style of deck you choose to build determines how you use your deck, as well as how you build it. Although similar in appearance, different decks can require different construction techniques.

Out Installation Services Associates built this Low-Level deck and documented the steps taken in order to help you build your own outdoor living area.
 

Footing positions were established around the concrete pad surrounding a pool. The low-level deck on each side of the pool is 30 feet long and 8 feet wide; 2x8 framing will be used on this low-level deck. Smaller-dimension framing requires more footings. Batterboards and mason's string lines were used to locate footing positions.

 

Ten holes for 8-inch-diameter footings for each deck side were dug with a power auger. Each hole is 48 inches deep to get below the local frost line. Tube forms were required for the footings. Concrete was delivered by truck and pumped to the footing locations. Post anchors for 4x4 posts were installed after the concrete cured for 48 hours.

 

4x4 posts were plumbed and temporarily braced in position. A water level was used to establish post heights, and each post was trimmed to accurate length. The ground slopes away from the concrete pad so the outer posts are longer than the inner posts. Landscape rock was added to cover the area after posts were installed, but before framing was completed.

 

Double 2x8 beams were built in place on top of the posts. They are attached to the posts with adjustable post caps. A 45-degree beam was installed in each corner. Decking will be attached around the deck perpendicular to the joists. The diagonal beam will support joists meeting from both directions.

 

2x8 rim joists and inner joists were installed. Inner joists were attached to the 45-degree beam with 45-degree joist hangers.

 

A ledger and framing for a box stair were installed. The front edge of the stair rests on the concrete pad. A 45-degree header joist was installed between box-stair sections in each deck corner.

 

5/4x6 decking was installed on the deck and the box stair perpendicular to the joists. Seams between boards were staggered between adjacent rows of decking. The board ends meeting in the corner are mitered at 45-degree angles. Decking was fastened with deck screws.

 

Railing post locations were calculated and posts installed. Posts were notched and attached to the outside of the perimeter framing. One post was notched to fit around each deck corner. Stair railings were not needed. Coated metal tubes were used as railing balusters.

 
   
 

RELATED PROJECTS


Building a Multilevel Deck

 

Building a Ground-Level Deck

 

Building a Single-Level Raised Deck

 
 

Do it Yourself Projects


Aligning the Bolt and Strike Plate

Adjusting an Out-of-Balance Door

Adding a Telephone Extension

Building a Multilevel Deck

Building a Ground-Level Deck

Building a Single-Level Raised Deck

Building a Low-Level Deck

Building a Closet Organizer

Building Utility Shelves

Constructing a Built-In Shelving Unit

Freeing a Sticking Door

Framing a Prehung Interior Door

Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers

Finishing Inside Corners

Finishing Outside Corners

Grouting

Getting Ready to Paint

Hanging Borders

Installing Cabinet Drawer Fronts

Installing Cabinet Doors

Installing a Security Lock

Installing an Entry Door

Installing Split-Jamb Interior Doors

Installing a Cable TV Jack

Installing Coaxial TV Cable

Installing a Programmable Thermostat

Installing a Ceiling Fan

Installing a Dimmer Switch

Installing a Three-Way Switch

Installing Specialty Switches

Installing Cement Backerboard

Installing Landscape Timber Edging

Installing Plastic Edging

Installing Metal Edging

Installing Wood Edging

Installing Sawtooth Brick Edging

Installing Flat Brick Edging

Installing Precast Concrete Edging

Installing Gutter Liners

Installing a New Flush Valve

Installing A Plunger-Valve Ballcock

Installing a Water Purifier

Installing A New Faucet

Installing a Toilet

Installing a Closet-Organizer System

Installing Stationary Brackets

Installing Adjustable Brackets

Installing Beaded-Board Wainscoting

Laying Out the Tiles

Laying Out Square Corners

Laying Out Arcs

Laying Out Straight Edges

Laying Out Free-form Curves

Maintaining Garage Door Openers

Making Minor Adjustments

Masking Wood Trim

Mitering Border Corners

Maintaining Your Storm Doors

Painting Flat Doors

Painting a Door (While Attached)

Painting a Door (Unattached)

Painting Trim

Painting Window Frames

Painting Exterior Windows

Painting Soffits and Fascia

Painting Jambs, Casings, and Trim

Patching Peeling Paint

Patching Large Holes in Wallboard

Patching Small Holes in Wallboard

Patching a Screen

Replacing Hinges

Replacing Door Pulls

Refinishing a Redwood or Cedar Deck

Renewing Your Deck

Refinishing a Pressure-Treated Deck

Replacing a Step

Repairing Decking and Joists

Replacing a Stair Railing

Replacing a Deck Railing

Roll-Up Door Maintenance Tips

Recessed Lighting

Replacing a Wall Switch

Removing Ceramic Tile

Removing Carpet

Removing Wood Flooring

Removing and Replacing Thresholds

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing Worn Valve Seats

Resurfacing Valve Seats

Repairing Leaky Downspout Joints

Repairing Leaky Metal Gutters

Replacing a Sink Sprayer

Removing Old Faucets

Removing a Toilet

Replacing Drain Traps

Removing Stains

Removing Mildew

Removing Wallpaper

Resetting Popped Nails

Replacing a Threshold

Replacing a Screen in a Wooden Frame

Replacing a Screen in a Metal Frame

Replacing a Screen in an Aluminum

Setting the Tiles

Stopping Squeaks

Troubleshooting Your Thermostat

Track Lighting

Testing a Light Socket

Testing a Receptacle for Power

Taping Joints

Under-Cabinet Lighting

Unclogging a Sink Drain Trap

Unclogging Toilet Drains

Unclogging Shower Drains

Using Chemical Strippers

Using a Heat Gun

Weatherproofing Your Entry Door

Weatherproofing Other Door Types

Weatherproofing Other Window Types

Weatherproofing Your Windows

 
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