You can caulk!
It waterproofs. It weatherproofs. It seals cracks and
fills in joints both inside and outside of your home. It's
relatively inexpensive, durable, and multi-purpose - and
best of all, it's easier to use than you might think! It's
caulk of course, and with a few helpful hints and a bit of
practice, you can be a do-it-yourself caulking pro. This
web page will give you some pointers on applying caulk.
Caulk should be used on...
Bathtubs and tile
Kitchen and bathroom plumbing fixtures
Window and door frames
Siding
Plaster walls
Baseboards
Flashing
Moldings
Air conditioners
Skylights
Gutters & downspouts
Concrete & mortar
Window panes
Foundations
Blacktop & roofing
Fireplaces & wood burning stoves
Air conditioners
Skylights
Gutters and downspouts
Concrete and mortar
Window panes
Foundations
Blacktop and roofing
Fireplaces and wood burning stoves
Red Devil caulks are long-lasting and offer many
specialized uses and properties. Please consult the
reference guide on the back to choose the Red Devil caulk
that best suits your project.
HINT: When you want to caulk areas where water collects,
such as a flat roof or driveway, it is best to choose a
solvent-based caulk. Acrylic caulks are a bit easier to
use and clean up, but standing water can deteriorate them.
Get started!
Caulk comes packaged in either a cartridge or a squeeze
tube. With a cartridge, you must use a caulking gun.
HINT: Your project will run more smoothly if you keep
these items handy:
Sponge
Paper towels
Small bucket of water
Mild bathroom cleaner
Caulk smoother
5-in-1 Tool or utility knife (for removing old caulking)
Although there are many different places inside and
outside of your home that can be sealed with caulk, the
application technique will be essentially the same in most
cases.
Surface Preparation
Making sure that the surface you are going to caulk is
clean and well-prepared is essential to achieving good
adhesion and a smooth bead. Here are a few helpful hints
in preparing the surface:
- Clean off any dust or dirt particles with water. Do not
use soap.
- Using a Red Devil 5-in-1 tool or utility knife, remove
any remnants of old caulking. New caulk will not adhere
well to acrylic caulk that has been cured - and will not
stick at all to cured silicone caulk. After you have
removed most of the old caulk with a blade (being careful
not to scratch the surface), clean any remaining residue
with a mild abrasive or rubbing alcohol.
- If the surface is mildewed, use a concentrated mildew
killer after removing the old caulk.
HINT: Caulk has a shelf life of one to two years. To
ensure that your caulk is fresh enough to work properly,
test it on a non-porous surface before you begin your
project. Make sure that the caulk sticks, comes out of the
cartridge smoothly, and most importantly, that it cures in
the time it is supposed to.
Ready, Set, Go!
HINT: We recommend practicing on newspaper if you are
caulking for the first time.
STEP

The tapered nozzle of the caulk cartridge must be cut
before you begin. The further down the nozzle you cut, the
larger the opening. Before you cut, estimate the width of
the crack or joint you are caulking (example: 1/4"), and
cut the nozzle at approximately the same measurement,
following the markings on the nozzle. Cut it at a 45°
angle.
STEP

If you are applying caulk from a cartridge, place the
cartridge into the caulking gun and hold it at a 45° angle
to the surface using even pressure and squeezing the
trigger. Apply caulk from a squeeze tube using the same
technique but without a caulking gun.
STEP

Once the caulk begins to come out of the nozzle, carefully
move the gun or tube at an even pace along the gap to be
filled. The caulk should fill the gap and also touch both
surfaces. If the bead of caulk is too narrow, re-cut the
nozzle to provide a larger opening.
HINT: How much caulk do you need for the job? One standard
cartridge contains enough caulk to cover 26 linear feet
with a 1/4" x 1/4" bead.
HINT: The best fill is usually achieved by pushing the
caulk out into the gap in a forward motion. However, in
some cases (particularly where the side materials are
rough or uneven) a pulling motion may work better, as the
cartridge will be less likely to get snagged along the
joint.
STEP

Use a Red Devil caulk smoother for both acrylic and
silicone caulks for a clean, finished look.*
* If you don't have a caulk smoother, a moistened finger
or a Popsicle stick can be used to smooth the bead.
HINT: It's better to apply a thin bead of caulk and add a
little more if necessary than to apply too much and
attempt to remove the excess.
STEP

Allow the caulk to set for the proper amount of time as
indicated on the packaging, especially if you intend to
paint over it. Curing times vary greatly so be sure to
read the instructions carefully.
HINT: If you are caulking around a bathtub, fill it with
water first. When the tub is full, or when someone steps
into it, the added weight causes the tub to shift or sink
slightly. You must make sure you are applying enough caulk
to the gap so the caulk will not crack under added weight
and movement.
HINT: If you plan to paint over the caulk, a white caulk
is a better choice than a clear paintable caulk, which
takes longer to cure and is more likely to shrink.
Wrapping Up...
Wasn't that easy? Caulking is a home project that even a
beginner can do. But whether pro or novice, print out this
web page and keep it handy for the helpful tips...these
will help you to get the results you want whenever you
caulk, and save you time when you shop! |