How To Use Caulk

 
You can caulk!
It waterproofs. It weatherproofs. It seals cracks and fills in joints both inside and outside of your home. It's relatively inexpensive, durable, and multi-purpose - and best of all, it's easier to use than you might think! It's caulk of course, and with a few helpful hints and a bit of practice, you can be a do-it-yourself caulking pro. This web page will give you some pointers on applying caulk.

Caulk should be used on...
Bathtubs and tile
Kitchen and bathroom plumbing fixtures
Window and door frames
Siding
Plaster walls
Baseboards
Flashing
Moldings
Air conditioners
Skylights
Gutters & downspouts
Concrete & mortar
Window panes
Foundations
Blacktop & roofing
Fireplaces & wood burning stoves
Air conditioners
Skylights
Gutters and downspouts
Concrete and mortar
Window panes
Foundations
Blacktop and roofing
Fireplaces and wood burning stoves

Red Devil caulks are long-lasting and offer many specialized uses and properties. Please consult the reference guide on the back to choose the Red Devil caulk that best suits your project.

HINT: When you want to caulk areas where water collects, such as a flat roof or driveway, it is best to choose a solvent-based caulk. Acrylic caulks are a bit easier to use and clean up, but standing water can deteriorate them.

Get started!

Caulk comes packaged in either a cartridge or a squeeze tube. With a cartridge, you must use a caulking gun.

HINT: Your project will run more smoothly if you keep these items handy:

Sponge
Paper towels
Small bucket of water
Mild bathroom cleaner
Caulk smoother
5-in-1 Tool or utility knife (for removing old caulking)

Although there are many different places inside and outside of your home that can be sealed with caulk, the application technique will be essentially the same in most cases.

Surface Preparation

Making sure that the surface you are going to caulk is clean and well-prepared is essential to achieving good adhesion and a smooth bead. Here are a few helpful hints in preparing the surface:

- Clean off any dust or dirt particles with water. Do not use soap.
- Using a Red Devil 5-in-1 tool or utility knife, remove any remnants of old caulking. New caulk will not adhere well to acrylic caulk that has been cured - and will not stick at all to cured silicone caulk. After you have removed most of the old caulk with a blade (being careful not to scratch the surface), clean any remaining residue with a mild abrasive or rubbing alcohol.
- If the surface is mildewed, use a concentrated mildew killer after removing the old caulk.

HINT: Caulk has a shelf life of one to two years. To ensure that your caulk is fresh enough to work properly, test it on a non-porous surface before you begin your project. Make sure that the caulk sticks, comes out of the cartridge smoothly, and most importantly, that it cures in the time it is supposed to.

Ready, Set, Go!

HINT: We recommend practicing on newspaper if you are caulking for the first time.

STEP
The tapered nozzle of the caulk cartridge must be cut before you begin. The further down the nozzle you cut, the larger the opening. Before you cut, estimate the width of the crack or joint you are caulking (example: 1/4"), and cut the nozzle at approximately the same measurement, following the markings on the nozzle. Cut it at a 45° angle.

STEP
If you are applying caulk from a cartridge, place the cartridge into the caulking gun and hold it at a 45° angle to the surface using even pressure and squeezing the trigger. Apply caulk from a squeeze tube using the same technique but without a caulking gun.

STEP
Once the caulk begins to come out of the nozzle, carefully move the gun or tube at an even pace along the gap to be filled. The caulk should fill the gap and also touch both surfaces. If the bead of caulk is too narrow, re-cut the nozzle to provide a larger opening.

HINT: How much caulk do you need for the job? One standard cartridge contains enough caulk to cover 26 linear feet with a 1/4" x 1/4" bead.

HINT: The best fill is usually achieved by pushing the caulk out into the gap in a forward motion. However, in some cases (particularly where the side materials are rough or uneven) a pulling motion may work better, as the cartridge will be less likely to get snagged along the joint.

STEP
Use a Red Devil caulk smoother for both acrylic and silicone caulks for a clean, finished look.*
* If you don't have a caulk smoother, a moistened finger or a Popsicle stick can be used to smooth the bead.
HINT: It's better to apply a thin bead of caulk and add a little more if necessary than to apply too much and attempt to remove the excess.

STEP
Allow the caulk to set for the proper amount of time as indicated on the packaging, especially if you intend to paint over it. Curing times vary greatly so be sure to read the instructions carefully.
HINT: If you are caulking around a bathtub, fill it with water first. When the tub is full, or when someone steps into it, the added weight causes the tub to shift or sink slightly. You must make sure you are applying enough caulk to the gap so the caulk will not crack under added weight and movement.

HINT: If you plan to paint over the caulk, a white caulk is a better choice than a clear paintable caulk, which takes longer to cure and is more likely to shrink.

Wrapping Up...
Wasn't that easy? Caulking is a home project that even a beginner can do. But whether pro or novice, print out this web page and keep it handy for the helpful tips...these will help you to get the results you want whenever you caulk, and save you time when you shop!

 
   
 
 

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