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By far the most common
type of faucet is also the oldest: compression faucets. These work,
unsurprisingly, by applying pressure to the valve in the form of a
rubber washer. As you turn the handles, a screw drives the rubber
washer into the space to create a tight seal. The problem is that so
much mechanical duress will inevitably compromise the integrity of
any washer, leaving you with an incomplete seal. The result? Leaking
that cannot be ceased no matter how hard you turn.
Thankfully, compression faucets are among the easiest types to
repair. Before you begin, you will want to shut off water to the
area and clog the drain with a towel or cloth – this keeps screws
and other parts from slipping into your home’s plumbing system. Most
homes employ simple handles that can be unscrewed manually, giving
you instant access to the stem, washer and valve seat. Look for the
part that has eroded over time – this is most likely a washer,
though especially old homes may use twine or thread instead. Check
the size and replace it with a matching part, and you should expect
a flawless seal for many years to follow.
Cartridge faucets may be simpler still. So named because they
supplant the washer with a formed square stopper, cartridge faucets
offer roughly the same advantages and disadvantages of an all-in-one
stereo: you don’t need to worry about mixing and matching
components, but when one goes, the whole device may be shot. Because
the cartridge and stem are fused into a single piece, you will
likely need to replace the entire assembly once the seal has eroded
over time. Be wary of getting the right gauge and wrong
configuration, however – cartridge faucets come in one-handled
varieties that require you line up both holes exactly.
Disc faucets are growing more common as homeowners seek smooth and
elegant designs that can blend temperatures with ease. All disc
faucets use two discs that may be polymer or ceramic, and these
glide across one another as you twist the handle. Because they rely
less on friction and more on precision design to open and close
seals, disc faucets are often less prone to the kind of wear you get
from more traditional washer designs. Even ceramics, however will
eventually succumb to water, meaning you may need to replace one or
both discs in the event of a leak. Loosen the handle with its set
screw and remove the escutcheon cap for easy access. Check the
O-rings and discs thoroughly for any signs of cracking or wear,
looking carefully for hairline fractures. If either disc is
compromised, you will likely need to replace the entire cylinder –
not cheap, but hardly a disaster.
The final faucet variety, known as the ball faucet, is easy to
diagnose. These may be the most prone to leaks for the simple reason
that they encourage a full range of motion with countless small
parts. The good news is that it’s exceedingly simple to get inside
and isolate the problem – loosening one set screw will open the
column. Try tightening the locking collar first – often this can
become loose from so much motion. If the leak persists, you will
need to get at the ball itself by popping off the domed cap and
removing the cam. Check the ball for signs of dirt or wear, and
replace it if age seems to have taken its toll. In nine out of ten
cases, your problems will vanish immediately. |
