|
The truth is that
maintaining a swimming pool can be exceptionally difficult,
particularly if yours is prone to unwanted pests and pathogens. The
problem gets more confusing still when you begin to research the
topic and discover just how much conflicting advice exists out
there. Many of the so-called “experts” are simply hawking their
unique chemical compounds, and it can be difficult to know which of
these represent genuine breakthroughs and which could pose a hazard
to your filtration system and family. Thankfully there are a few
general categories of pool chemicals that have been tested, deployed
and studied for many years to ensure they are safe to use.
Most pool owners know by now that the name of the game in pool
maintenance is to keep the “big three” – chlorine, pH and alkalinity
– within acceptable limits. Let’s start with chlorine, the essential
biocide in any pool and its most important ally in the battle
against infestation. Chlorine is useful in that it inhibits
bacterial growth practically on contact, breaking down cellular
walls and disrupting essential metabolic paths. Maintaining the
chlorine level in your pool – the ideal range is 1 - 1.5 ppm – is
the only way to ensure you will not drink in unwanted visitors with
every dip.
The confusion around chlorine is that it tends to break down rather
quickly under the sun’s rays. Chlorine is already considered an
unstable molecule – this is why it reacts with bacteria so readily –
and that extra shot of energy can greatly diminish its
concentration. This is why many experts recommend so-called
“stabilized” chlorine in disc or granulated form, a more
sophisticated blend of chlorine types that should retain its
chemical potency far longer during the hot summer months. If you
don’t relish the though of monitoring your pool’s chlorine level
every few hours, time-savers such as these may be precisely what
you’re looking for.
The other two elements of the big three exist primarily to support
the chlorine. Some homeowners blanch at the prospect of maintaining
pH, assuming they need a doctorate in chemistry to make sense of
this balancing act. In fact, there is no great mystery behind pH or
how it works – simply put, the number is a measure of how many acid
or base ions are roaming around your pool. Too much of either one
and the chlorine will not make contact with bacteria, so it’s
essential to stay within a reasonable range, usually between 7.2 and
7.8. As with chlorine, you can regulate this number rather easily
with store-bought items that come with simple instructions, adding
whichever “side” you need to regain balance.
Alkalinity is the one that sounds most confusing, especially to
people who associate the word with batteries and little else. In
fact, the number refers to the pool’s ability to effectively
maintain a steady pH. Go outside that range and the pH level could
quickly spin off the charts, rendering your chlorine content
essentially useless. Thankfully you only need to add store-bought
products here as well to maintain an acceptable range of 80 – 120
ppm. Check frequently and you should have no troubles.
But what to do if a problem has arisen despite all your efforts? The
list of treatment chemicals is longer than the number of things that
can go wrong, so it is essential to read labels and be vigilant
about protecting your home from untested compounds. Calcium and
sodium hypochlorite are generally considered safe, while water
softeners and conditioners may be used often to combat ongoing
problems with your city’s water supply. Exercise some caution,
however, for brand-name items that recommend themselves as the only
known “cure” for algae. Usually such problems can be solved less
expensively using conventional shocks and algaecides. |
